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While in Kyoto I am popping in at a few cafés featured in the book I have been reading lately. I am in Otafuku (which I have probably walked past a million times in the past 20 years) which actually has a small poster of Merry’s book above the bar! @meijiat150/1048352372999651329Permalink On twitter.com
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There is a sign prohibiting photos, so I will have to describe it: you walk down stairs into a dark wood-panelled room maybe 12x12. It feels kind of like stepping in the the captains cabin on a pirate ship.Permalink On twitter.com
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There is one booth, 3 very small (and low tables) and a bench with 3 more tables. The wooden bar in the corner seats 5 more. Altogether seating for 18. Each seat is upholstered in a dark aquamarine velvet.On twitter.com
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The lighting is also straight out of 19th C Vienna: at the top of the wall every two or so feet is a sconce with a faux gas light. Between each light is a frame-and-webbing shelf for you to put your ... I dunno, your bag of pirate booty or your Latin Gutenberg Bible? 🤷🏼♂️Permalink On twitter.com
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There are two other customers here. Luckily nobody is smoking, but there are ashtrays on the tables and the musty smell of cigarettes is infused in the wood panels and dark carpet.Permalink On twitter.com
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Some light jazz piano is playing and the master is chatting with the older customer at the bar as she makes the coffee in the distinct style described in Merry’s book.Permalink On twitter.com
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I am not tall, but I feel the need to duck in this tiny space. Just up the stairs is Shijo-Teramachi: a very busy and heavily trafficked area of Kyoto. A million tourists pass above our heads as we take a quiet break in this cozy, velvet and wooden womb.Permalink On twitter.com